Kievtown.net
Kiev travel guide
Kievtown.net Kiev travel guide |
|
||||
EXCURSIONS IN KIEV: Excursion across Kievo-Pecherskaya Lavra
|
Kievo-Pecherskaya Lavra is divided into two parts: Upper (Near Caves) and Lower (Far Caves). Upper Lavra is the territory of National Historic - Cultural preserve. Four gates lead to this Lavra part: Western (the Gate Church of the Trinity); Northern (the Church of All Saints); East and Southern (or Cave). The front entrance to Lavra is Holy gates. There is the Gate Church of the Trinity atop Holy gates, the oldest one in Kievo-Pecherskaya Lavra territory. In Lower (Far Caves) Lavra the men's monastery operates, Near and Far caves are located. Part of Kievo-Pecherskaya Lavra was returned to the church in honor of 1000 anniversary of Christianization of Rus. Now archbishop Pavel heads the monastery. The youngest novice of the monastery is 17 years old. In the monastery territory there are operating churches, icon stands, wells with holy water, caves, where the relics lie, and a small cemetery. All parts of Kievo-Pecherskaya Lavra are separated from each other by high stone walls and are communicated with gates and galleries. The Church of the Exaltation of Cross covers the entrance to Near caves, the Church of the Conception of St. Anne – the entrance to Far caves. The entrance is free for believers, who come here to pray.
According to some ancient sources, the Story of temporal year particularly, the first cenobite and founder of the monastery was Antony (born Antipa) from Lubich, near Chernigov. He took the monastic vows in Esfigmensky monastery at Athons (Greece). When he came to Kiev, he settled in the cove that had been dug by priest Illarion for himself. After Illarion had become the metropolitan in 1051, the cave was unihabited. People found out about Antony selfless life and began coming to him for blessing, brought food and clothes. Someone even asked him for shelter and Antony was living with 12 followers for some time. They enlarged the caves, equipped the cells and built the underground cathedral. Later, in Reverend Theodosius time, the cave cells became too small for the increased number of cenobites and the first surface buildings appeared - the Church of the Nativity of the Virgin and cells. The monastery activities were moved upwards and old cells were used as burial place since then for 7 centuries.
Just because of the caves the monastery is called Pechersky (Rus: a cave – peshera). As one of the largest and most powerful orthodox men’s monastery, it was given the status of Lavra. Lavra is the name for large monasteries that can be compared to small cities with some separate streets (Greek: Lavra – a street). In these monastery cities life passes in accordance with strict rules and laws which are necessary for full-fledged monastery life support. In 1230, monastery building suffered from earthquake, and in 1240 – from the invasion of khan Baty horde. During next centuries the monastery went through several natural calamities and wars, but always was restored and kept working. Kievo-Pecherskaya Lavra became a museum after the revolution of 1917, and before it the monastery was a religious center, where orthodox believers were coming like Muslims to Mecca. The main aim of the pilgrims was to pass trough Holy (Tsar) Gates to be absolved of a half of their sins (another half was absolved in the caves); the most important thing was not to stumble, otherwise the sins considered too hard and were not absolved. In old times only nobility and High clergy could use Holy gates and other people had to enter the monastery through the small gates on it sides. These gates were lost, but the custom to take a hat off at entrance remained. The oldest in Russia wonder-working icon of Assumption of Virgin Mary was placed over Tsar Gates. The legend tells that the icon was brought to the monastery by the holy builders from Tsargrad in 1073; Virgin Mary gave it for Pechersky monastery and blessed them to build the cathedral.
Gate Church of the Trinity adjoins directly to Holy Gates. It is the oldest cathedral at Lavra territory. It was found on the fortress wall in ancient times and served as a watchtower. Since then it has never been destroyed or reconstructed. The cathedral is right-angled and is notable for its modest size (10m x 8,9m). It was built in 1106-1108 for the means of prince Svyatoslav Vladimirovich, who took monastic vows and became known as Svyatosha. The cathedral is built of stone and thin brick like other buildings of that time. There is no chorus in the cathedral building as there was no vestibule formerly. It was decorated very simply, we can judge by South facade that remained untouched. Interior decoration of Trinity Church in Kievo-Pecherskaya Lavra was renovated quite often. At the beginning of 18 century Lavra icon painting school apprentices painted the cathedral walls and vaults by biblical subjects. The iconostasis and mural painting were strictly controlled by Kievo-Pecherskaya Lavra: faces of saints had to reflect wisdom, inspiration, unearthly peace and deep contemplation of unknown future. Later, in 1900-1902 a group of artists painted the walls that unite the church’s facade and stone walls.
The carved gilt wooden three-storied iconostasis stands out in Trinity church interior. The iconostasis was made of linden by Lavra carvers in Ukrainian baroque style in technique of "through carving" in 1734. The large16-candle church chandelier decorates the temple centre. The church chandelier was cast in 1724, its weight is 664 kgs. There is a line of wooden painted pews along the temple walls which were also made at the beginning of 18 century. These pews are called stasidia. The stasidias were intended for aged and sick monks of Nikolsky Hospital monastery who couldn’t stand during service. Church of the Trinity floor was laid out by figured pig-iron plates. These plates were cast at Demidov's Bryansk factories in 1732 for his own means. Demidov was given absolution for all his past and future sins then. A small street leads from Holy gates and Gate church of the Trinity directly to Uspensky cathedral. There are galleries on each side of it. The buildings were constructed at the beginning of 18 century, instead of the wooden that were burnt down during the fire of 1718. They are divided into cells, which served as dwelling for Lavra monastic elders. During Great Patriotic War the cells were destroyed and were restored in 1948 – 1963. Now exhibitions and shops are located in the cells.
Approaching Uspensky cathedral, to the right we can see the Great Lavra Belltower – the largest bell tower in Kiev. Its height is 96,5 m. The first stage walls are 8 meters thick; its foundation is 7 meters deep. The tower building was conducted in 1731-1745 by the known architect Y.G. Shedel. Bells, weighting 5 poods in total, were placed at the third stage; one of which, of 1 thousand poods, was cast straight in Lavra by G. Lukin. The second one, of 1636 poods, was made in Moscow by P. Finlyndsky. In 1744 the chiming clock were installed at the fourth stage and in 1903 they were replaced by the new, performed by Moscow master A. Enodin. In 2005, Donetsk metallurgists cast one more, 7tonne bell that will be placed at the third stage of the tower. Uspensky Cathedral – the Great Pesherskaya Church is the main temple of Kievo-Pecherskaya Lavra. Uspensky Cathedral was the first stone building at the territory of Pechersky monastery and the oldest temple in Lavra. The cathedral is in the middle of the central square of Far Lavra, opposite Holy Gates. According to Nestor the Chronicler evidence, the stone church of Assumption in Pechersky monastery was founded by Reverend Anthony with the blessing of St. Father Superior Theodosius and Episcope Michael in 1072.
According to Pechersky Lives of Holy Fathers, several signs preceded building of Uspensky cathedral. Legends tell that Mother of God called four church masters to the Church of St. Mary of Blachernae in Constantinople, where the robe of Our Lady were kept, and uttered: “I want to build a church for me in Russia, in Kiev.” The builders were given her sacred image, relics of seven martyrs and means for 3 year building. The relics had to be placed into the church fundament and the icon at the church iconostasis. The masters were shown the image of the future church and were told: “The measure I’ve sent – the girdle of my son”. It’s known that the means for the church building were donated by Varangian voivode Shimon (Simon). It was he who brought the golden girdle and golden crown, Mother of God had told about, to Reverend Anthony. Shimon saw the church images in the sky twice, during the most difficult periods of his life. He also knew the proper proportions of the church: 20-30-50. When the architects came to Kiev from Tsargrad and asked Reverend Anthony and Theodosius ?Where do you want to be the church??, they heard the answer: ?God will point?. And after prayers, the place for the church was miraculously designated for three times by dew and fire.
The church interior was painted with frescos and decorated with mosaics. Besides Greek masters, the church was painted by Kiev artist Alipy, who had studied mosaics under Greeks. The greatest work of wood carving was the main five-stage iconostasis of 22 meters high. After the fire in 1718, the church was considerably enlarged, repainted and decorated. In different times church walls were painted by V.P. Vereschagin and other known artists All main Lavra sacred things were always kept in the Great Church. Uspensky cathedral is a real pantheon, where 300 known people were buried, mainly they were outstanding state, public and cultural figures of that time. Rare values, Petro Mohila’s library and archeological finds were also kept here. Uspensky cathedral was destroyed during Great Patriotic War – on 3th November, 1941. Just ruins remained at the central square of the reserve. Who was guilty of the complete destruction, Germans or Russians, it’s still shrouded in mystery. And just in December 1995, Ukraine President Leonid Kuchma issued a decree about the cathedral restoration. And by 2000 Uspensky cathedral was rebuild from the bottom.
Near to Uspensky cathedral there is a wide-domical cathedral, built in Neo-Byzantine. This is the church of Reverend Anthony and Theodosius, connected with two-storeyed refectory that was built in 1893-1895 according to the project of academician of architecture V. Nikolaev. During Great Patriotic War the building was damaged and after the war – repaired. Several burial places are settled near the wall between the refectory and Uspensky cathedral. The general judge of Zaporozhskoe army, legendary V. Kochubey; Poltava colonel I. Iskrya; Don Cossack colonel F. Frolov and Russian premier-minister P.A. Stolypin were buried here. It is known, that there were 18 attempts on Stolypin’s life during his trips to different cities of Russian empire. That is why he entrusted to bury him at the place of murder if such occurred. The architectural monument of 17-18 centuries, Kovnirsky building is located a little behind the Cathedral of the Dormition (Uspensky cathedral). The building was named so in honour of outstanding Lavra builder Stepan Kovnir. Now there is the Museum of Historical Treasures of Ukraine, one of the most interesting Kiev museums, in Kovnirsky building.
Kievo-Pecherskaya Lavra printing establishments adjoins Kovrisky building. It was founded in 1615 by known scientist and educator Lavra archimandrite Elisey Pletenetsky; since then it began printing books regularly. The first publication was Book of Hours (1616-1617) – literacy textbook. 100 thousand copies of different editions were printed altogether. Lavra books were notable for highly artistic design, beautiful print, original pictures. In 1718 the great fire destroyed all wooden buildings, dsmaged a lot of stone buildings, many church values were lost, including Lavra printing establishment. In 1720 restoration of out-of-order buildings and construction of the new began. As a result, in 18 century Lavra architectural ensemble, that mainly remained till our days, was formed. Walking down the steep descent, to the right of Uspensky cathedral, we enter the territory of Lower Lavra. The main sight for tourists and the shrine for believers are caves, where the relics of Lavra saints lie. The entrance to the nearest caves is covered by the Church of the Exaltation of Cross, that has never been reconstructed and remained in its original condition. There are three passages from the church directly to the Nearest Caves: from vestibule, refectory and sacristy.
The Church of the Conception of St. Anne covers up the entrance to the Far Caves. The church was built in 1679 for the donation of Pechersky place inhabitant Alexander Novitsky. The church got its present appearance in 1809 after the reconstruction, conducted by the military engineer and architect Alexander Yakushkin, who had also built the wooden gallery with the stone tower near the cave entrance. In 1811 Yakushin took monastic vows in Lavra with the name Arseny. After that he was a monastic elder and Far Caves keeper and was buried in the vault of the Church of the Conception of St. Anne, that was also built during the church building. For the first time the caves were mentioned in annals in 1051. They were dug by the monks of Kievo-Pecherskaya Lavra. Near and Far Caves became the place of solitude and interment. Nestor the Annalist, the author of the Story of Times, Simon and Polycarp, the authors of Lives of Holy Pechersky Fathers, painter Alipy, doctor Agapetus, Ilya Muromets and others were among the buried here. The first burial in Near Caves was the burial of Reverend Anthony in 1073, in Far Caves – the burial of Reverend Theodosius in 1074. That is why Near Caves are called Anthony’s and Far – Theodosius.
Today the labyrinths of Near and Far caves are an intricate system of underground corridors of 2-2, 5 m height and 1, 5 m width, but many of them are more narrow. The caves lie at the depth of 5-15 m and Far caves even deeper. The length of Near Caves is 313 m, Far – 293 m. Three underground churches are located there and are still operating. In the corridor walls there are windows of hermits’ cells, who devoted their lives to prayers and patience Burial ceremony was introduced to the caves during the rule of Reverend Nikon, who had brought it from Tmutarakan (Krasnodar territory). But the burial order was also mentioned in Studysky rules, according to which the whole monastery lived. This order differs from the usual Christian interment. Naked parts of deceased were edged with cloths, arms were folded on chest, face was covered and body was put on the board and laid to the special cave without coffin. The cave was covered with icon or bricked up. It was opened in three years. If the body was reduced to dust, the deceased was pious but not saint. In this case skull and crossbones were gathered separately reburied. If the body didn’t decayed, the cave was covered again and prayed for. After a few years the cave was opened again and the monk was canonized.
Hermits are monks who locked themselves up in small cells for the whole life. There they lived without sunshine, in silence and prayers, mortifying their flesh by fasting and toil. The first stage of reclusion was not extremely strict and hermits could communicate during general prayers. The second stage – seclusion, was much sterner. Monks who chose this way, had to dig a separate cell and enclosed theirselves forever. Several times a week elected monk came to the small holes of such cells to bring some water and food and ask for blessing. If the food remained untouched, monks understood that the hermit was dead. But as such hermits considered already buried, their bodies were not disturbed and were carried to gravy only in 2 years. The caves were closed for outsiders for a long time and only in 15th century they became open for pilgrims. The saints relics were kept in the tombs, standing in the niches on both sides of the galleries; the images of the Saints were placed at the head and icon lamps were glimmered before; the plate with the name was above. The bodies were covered with veil and just one hand was left open so that people could kiss it. Now these niches are covered with glass and close contact is ruled out. From 17th to 18th century, the caves were reconstructed and widened to make them comfortable for comers. Walls and arches were straightened and decorated with paintings.
In 19th century, according to the decision of Lavra Ecclesiastical synod, new shrines for the saint relics were made of cypress, oak, linden and placed at the same level. Silk, brocade and velvet shawls were embroidered with pearls, glass beads, golden and silver threads. The floors were paved with cast-iron plates. Now the entrance to the caves is free. The nominal charge is a candle that should be taken into the caves. A candle is lighted at entrance and should be carried in a special way like it is described at the picture or the guide will explain. Guide service is paid. After all a candle can be thrown out or taken with you because it’s considered that a candle absorbs divine grace, especially if you have touched the shrine and prayed. The sightseeing of the caves with a guide is preferable if you group is small, if not it will be difficult to hear everything. Lightening in the caves is not bright and a candle also serves like illuminator. People, who are afraid of dark and close space, should not enter the caves by theirselves. Women can’t wear trousers in the caves (at the monastery territory it’s allowed). But if you came in trousers, it’s possible to hire a special apron-skirt at entrance for a pledge that will be returned.
Between Near and Far Caves there two holy wells, one of which was dug by Reverend Anthon and another one by Reverend Theodosius. Here one can wash and drink holy water. Having gone out the galleries to the square near Far Caves, we’ll see the rising cathedral in Ukrainian baroque – the Church of The Nativity of the Virgin. In 1062 the first ground cathedral of the Dormition of the Virgin was built at this place. After the consecration of the Great Dormition Church, the cathedral over Far Caves became cemetery. The old monastery necropolis was forming around it. Outstanding ecclesiastics and secular people, performed great services for the Church and state, were buried there. Little by little the cemetery was filling up and the ecclesiastic top had to restrict the burials. The burial in Lavra became a privilege for rich or distinguished. Among them is Sofia Aksakova (1823-1885) – the daughter of known Russian writer S.G. Aksakov. According to the legend Asakov family comes from legendary Shimon Africanovich, who financed the building of Lavra Uspensky cathedral in 11th century.
In view of the uniqueness of Lavra architecture, the Reserve importance for world culture and science, 14th session of International committee UNESCO included Kievo-Pecherskaya Lavra in the list of the world significant monuments. But because of its disastrous condition, Lavra reserve can be excluded of this list. Unfortunately, Lavra monuments are collapsing faster than repairing recently. One of the causes for this is its abeyant status and unprofessional economical activity of Moscow Patriarchate. The ground destruction leads to humidity and temperature level growth that held up at 14 C for centuries. Now it’s fluctuating from 15 till 28 degrees and this fact leads to the relics’ destruction. Lavra exclusion from UNESCO list will entail Sofia of Kiev exclusion because the reserves were included as one object. There are also a lot of other objects at Kievo-Pecherskaya Lavra territory that we haven’t mentioned: bell towers, hospice, churches, museums. But it’s impossible to see everything at once – Lavra territory is too big. The entrance to Lavra is paid. Tickets to museums, the Great Lavra Bell tower should be bought separately. Shooting is paid inside the museums and is free outside. In the evenings (after 18.oo in winter and after 19.00 in summer), the entrance becomes free but all museums and caves are closed. The entrance is also free on some church holidays, World Museum day, Kiev Day, Day of Independence of Ukraine, Knowledge Day.
|
Àâèàáèëåòû äåøåâî
buruki.ru - äåøåâûå àâèàáèëåòû |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
